It was a beautiful, warm and sunny saturday some weeks ago, I met Ben at the bus station and we were off to Karmøy, often referred to as the Island! The forecast had told us about a good swell coming in from the southwest (14 period(!)). We arrived at Sandve after about an hour long bus trip - ready to hit the waves! It was actually pretty funny, because we forgot to push the "stop" button, so we had to walk an extra 300 meters(!). We figured Sandvesanden would be full, so we went to a small beach just south of Sandve called Mjølhus. The first look was just amazing, totally radical! As you can see from the picture, we were met by sun, 20 degrees and a perfect lefty. We thought this would be one of the best days of surfing at the Island yet...well, we were wrong - very wrong! After we got suited up, we started paddling out. Ben was on fire and was soon ready for his first of the day. It was now we discovered the true intention of the waves this morning! Ben wiped out pretty bad, the break of the wave was just wrong (breaking heavily, too fast and straight down!), but he got back up immediately. On his way out, he met a maaassive wave, he ducked under...but his board didn't. Poor board! When Ben got up to the surface, he found only half-a-board! The other half was on it's way back in! :S We took a break, mourning over his late surfboard. After a while we took our stuff and went over the hill to Sandve. Here, the waves were a bit smaller, but nicer, smoother waves. We met some friends and paddled out. Just laying there, chilling, was pretty sweet! We got to ride about one wave each, but the day had been kind of nice, even though Ben's board were totally thrashed!! The bus ride home seamed to last for hoours! But we got some entertainment - ha ha, we met some Karmøy skaters, and dude did they look ridiculous! They seemed to be right out of the "stop the pretty boys" group on Facebook!
Now I'm just waiting for Ben to get himself a new board so we can get back in the water! The autumn vacation is coming up, and the forecast is looking good! All we need now is some sun so we can get some serious longboarding done!
Until next time, "HANG LOOSE"!
-Rob
