Haye there people!
It's october for christ sake?! Who would have thought we would make it through that horrible flat summer? Well, I'm back and still breathing (barely). From now on I'm not gonna promise any new posts in the near future, but there will come some random ones just like this one!
The Loners
Did ya notice the fact that I wrote : "I'm back.." -well, it happens to be like this: Ben went to Bali, Indo to rip up some perfect lefty's 'nd right's over there...and left me and the rest of the gang hangin' back here... But we're ofcourse happy for the lad and I think I speak for all of us when I say I wish I was there to rip Indo with him! I've been dreaming about that place for a great while now, and guess what - in just 5 days I will apply for next fall's semester at Gateway College @ Bali, so you bet I'm gonna be there next July to get a head start on my surfing-without-boardshorts-career! You see, the semester is only 3 months, so I'm heading down there one month in advance to get the most out of the journey ;)
Injury and such BS
Well, these days we're on break from school - for me it was supposed to be one week of intensive surfing - getting ready for the Volcom vqs Codfish tournament from 16th -> 18th this month. Sadly for me (whine whine) I got injured two weeks ago. I was out on a pretty heavy day with some mates (and another local with NM experience) and I was caught by the lip after an OK bottom turn.. The wave was huuuge, maybe the biggest I've ever whiped out on (and yes, it has been quite a few..) and I got pulled down straight to the bottom of the beach and hit the sand with a bang! I hit my shoulder pretty bad, but I didn't know what it was so I just paddled out in the lineup again, this time when I paddled for the wave it really, really hurt! So I went in and called it a day. Two days later I got it checked out at the hospital, aaand they told me that I had - wait for it - partly dislokated my shoulder(!) Yes, how could it be? Well, I've been asking myself that question every day for the last two weeks now. Good new's though, I'm feeling better and better every day and today I got to do my first pushups in far too long! As soon as I get my new board I'm sure heading out, back into the Karmøy lineup! -Said what?...
Cohete
Allrightythen! Yes there it is, my NEW shortboard! it's a 6'2 squashtail, made by a shaper called John Tsoutis from Greece actually. The board has been used twice by a team-rider but was put out for sale on ebay, luckily for me I found it got a bid on! Today, or, well it's actually yesterday now since I'm writing this in the middle of the night - ANYWAY - I went to Stavanger (Surf Capital of Norway) to meet up with Karmøy surfer Ragnhild (a.k.a. Ræggys), she just arrived from Jerusalem (don't ask why). She bought a Roxy wetsuit to get ready for the cold Norwegian winter that is coming up. Well all you Norwegian surfers know what that means - big swells and lot's of 'em! I bought a new set of FCS fins for the new board (the "Flex Glass K2.1") and a leash. So wintersurf here we are!
Speaking of wintersurf! Next weekend Rob, Ozzy, The Foreigner, Pladen, Ræggys & Prytz are heading down south to Stavanger and Jæren for the 2009 VOLCOM VQS CODFISH! Rob had intentions of competing, but had to eat his own words cuz of the injury (Ozzy says: yeah right!). Also this winter a lot of time will go into nutrition and more physical training not in the surf. Still, Rob has not surfed without a wetsuit(!)(!)
Travelling the tides of the world.
It's october and rainy, it makes you think. More than usual. Well, at least I do. I think about how it would be to live somewhere warmer, with more consistante swells. Like the U.S. or Aussie - the places nearly all the WCT pros are from. If it were up to me, I would just take all my friends and family and move to Bali, Indo. Straight away! It's cheap, it's sunny and hot all year and it has got a great variety of waves. From the popular Kuta Beach to the terrifying and glorious Padang-Padang just a little boat-trip away from Bali.
I think this is maybe the biggest reason for the total lack of Scandinavian representation on the world tour. Here, in Norway (and in Sweden, and Denmark etc.) we don't got the pumping waves all year - we've got some crushing waves in the winter and 7mm wetsuits to make it through the icy cold. You can imagine the restrained ability to move in those rubbersuits!
That is why next year, I'm leaving Norway for half-a-year.. And hopefully I will return to the Island of my dreams after I'm done with Sogndal Folkehøgskule (the school with the arrangement with Gateway C.) I want to evolve, not just as a surfer (but that mostly..he-he) but also as a person. I live in a small city with many bad people. I want to get away, to a place where I can get some peace in mind and get to focus more on doing what I love - surfing! This is where I can evolve as an athlete and human beeing,
Bali -> I can't wait!
It's october for christ sake?! Who would have thought we would make it through that horrible flat summer? Well, I'm back and still breathing (barely). From now on I'm not gonna promise any new posts in the near future, but there will come some random ones just like this one!
The Loners
Did ya notice the fact that I wrote : "I'm back.." -well, it happens to be like this: Ben went to Bali, Indo to rip up some perfect lefty's 'nd right's over there...and left me and the rest of the gang hangin' back here... But we're ofcourse happy for the lad and I think I speak for all of us when I say I wish I was there to rip Indo with him! I've been dreaming about that place for a great while now, and guess what - in just 5 days I will apply for next fall's semester at Gateway College @ Bali, so you bet I'm gonna be there next July to get a head start on my surfing-without-boardshorts-career! You see, the semester is only 3 months, so I'm heading down there one month in advance to get the most out of the journey ;)
Injury and such BS
Well, these days we're on break from school - for me it was supposed to be one week of intensive surfing - getting ready for the Volcom vqs Codfish tournament from 16th -> 18th this month. Sadly for me (whine whine) I got injured two weeks ago. I was out on a pretty heavy day with some mates (and another local with NM experience) and I was caught by the lip after an OK bottom turn.. The wave was huuuge, maybe the biggest I've ever whiped out on (and yes, it has been quite a few..) and I got pulled down straight to the bottom of the beach and hit the sand with a bang! I hit my shoulder pretty bad, but I didn't know what it was so I just paddled out in the lineup again, this time when I paddled for the wave it really, really hurt! So I went in and called it a day. Two days later I got it checked out at the hospital, aaand they told me that I had - wait for it - partly dislokated my shoulder(!) Yes, how could it be? Well, I've been asking myself that question every day for the last two weeks now. Good new's though, I'm feeling better and better every day and today I got to do my first pushups in far too long! As soon as I get my new board I'm sure heading out, back into the Karmøy lineup! -Said what?...
CoheteAllrightythen! Yes there it is, my NEW shortboard! it's a 6'2 squashtail, made by a shaper called John Tsoutis from Greece actually. The board has been used twice by a team-rider but was put out for sale on ebay, luckily for me I found it got a bid on! Today, or, well it's actually yesterday now since I'm writing this in the middle of the night - ANYWAY - I went to Stavanger (Surf Capital of Norway) to meet up with Karmøy surfer Ragnhild (a.k.a. Ræggys), she just arrived from Jerusalem (don't ask why). She bought a Roxy wetsuit to get ready for the cold Norwegian winter that is coming up. Well all you Norwegian surfers know what that means - big swells and lot's of 'em! I bought a new set of FCS fins for the new board (the "Flex Glass K2.1") and a leash. So wintersurf here we are!
Speaking of wintersurf! Next weekend Rob, Ozzy, The Foreigner, Pladen, Ræggys & Prytz are heading down south to Stavanger and Jæren for the 2009 VOLCOM VQS CODFISH! Rob had intentions of competing, but had to eat his own words cuz of the injury (Ozzy says: yeah right!). Also this winter a lot of time will go into nutrition and more physical training not in the surf. Still, Rob has not surfed without a wetsuit(!)(!)
Travelling the tides of the world.
It's october and rainy, it makes you think. More than usual. Well, at least I do. I think about how it would be to live somewhere warmer, with more consistante swells. Like the U.S. or Aussie - the places nearly all the WCT pros are from. If it were up to me, I would just take all my friends and family and move to Bali, Indo. Straight away! It's cheap, it's sunny and hot all year and it has got a great variety of waves. From the popular Kuta Beach to the terrifying and glorious Padang-Padang just a little boat-trip away from Bali.
I think this is maybe the biggest reason for the total lack of Scandinavian representation on the world tour. Here, in Norway (and in Sweden, and Denmark etc.) we don't got the pumping waves all year - we've got some crushing waves in the winter and 7mm wetsuits to make it through the icy cold. You can imagine the restrained ability to move in those rubbersuits!
That is why next year, I'm leaving Norway for half-a-year.. And hopefully I will return to the Island of my dreams after I'm done with Sogndal Folkehøgskule (the school with the arrangement with Gateway C.) I want to evolve, not just as a surfer (but that mostly..he-he) but also as a person. I live in a small city with many bad people. I want to get away, to a place where I can get some peace in mind and get to focus more on doing what I love - surfing! This is where I can evolve as an athlete and human beeing,
Bali -> I can't wait!
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